Day 14 – In the Groove on the West Coast
After a couple of weeks on the road — unshaven, hair getting longer — we’re now well and truly into the touring groove.
No road too long. No hill too steep.
We’ve also settled into a rhythm:6 hours riding, 6 hours on the peripherals (eating, drinking, charging devices), and 12 hours sleeping.
It seems to work.
We rolled out of Franz Joseph just as the morning helicopter flights were lifting off, taking passengers toward Aoraki / Mount Cook for sunrise photos.
Today was, by West Coast standards, a relatively flat stage — although there was one nasty spike halfway through, about 3 km of solid granny-gear work to keep things honest.
Heading north, we passed Lake Mapourika and then Lake Wahapo, both sitting quietly under the mountains.
At our first stop in Whataroa, a couple of local old mates informed us that beer is now more expensive than petrol.
Just as well.
By our calculations we’re getting about 150 kilometres to the litre — admittedly on mostly imported beer.
Whataroa feels like proper Fred Dagg country — small dairy farms, herringbone sheds, and plenty of well-used utes that look like they’ve seen a few decades of service.
It’s a noticeably different feel from the other side of the range.
Further up the road at Hari Hari, there are nods to the region’s past — early aviation and the whitebait fishing industry. We’ve made a note to try a whitebait sandwich before the trip is over.
A nice local touch at the café — everyone leaves their gumboots at the door before heading inside.
The last stretch into Ross had a few small climbs, but nothing too demanding, and we rolled into town ready for a proper feed at the Historic Empire Hotel.
The chips were excellent.
We’re now set up at the Ross Top 10 Holiday Park, right on the beach… and somehow no sandflies.
Not sure how that works, but we’re not asking questions.
With tents pitched and washing done, we’ve settled into the usual touring pastime — loitering around the camp kitchen waiting to talk to anyone who walks past.
So far we’ve managed to:
- get a full tour of a brand new campervan from a couple of locals
- chat with two Americans from Georgia who drove their Ram 150 all the way to Alaska
Plenty of stories around.
Another good day on the road.
Day Summary
Route: Franz Joseph → Ross
Distance: 110 km
Riding Time: 6 hr 2 min
Climbing: 757 m
Weather: Fine, light winds
Best moment: Settling into the touring rhythm
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