Day 16 – Trails, Donuts and Into Greymouth

The last time we did a trip like this back in Australia, we ended up with a write-up in the local paper. Over here, we barely raise an eyebrow.

Cyclists are everywhere — all ages, all types of bikes, and from all over the world.

Last night we spent time talking with a German couple, Francis (an analytical biologist) and Joachim (an orthopaedist). They’re spending three months cycling around New Zealand.

Their approach is very civilised — leave around 10 am once the tent is dry, ride about 50 km, then stop early.

Unfortunately, that sort of schedule isn’t really in our DNA.

We woke this morning to fog sitting low over the lake and surrounding valleys, and wasted no time getting going. The climb out of Lake Kaniere got the heart rate up early as we set off to complete the remainder of the West Coast Wilderness Trail.

The official blurb suggests the full trail is a 4–5 day ride.

We managed to knock it over in about eight hours.

Today’s riding followed a mix of gravel access roads, purpose-built trail, and narrow tracks alongside hydro diversion channels, all through dense temperate forest.

There were a few switchbacks near the top at Kawhaka Pass, but thankfully also a number of suspension bridges to get across the deeper gorges.


We were looking forward to a break at Cowboy Paradise café, just before the main climb.

It looked more like the aftermath of a gunfight at the OK Corral.

Closed.

Plan B involved what must be one of the largest donuts in New Zealand, consumed outside the café opposite the Kumara Memorial Hall.

Also included:

  • a pie
  • a cappuccino
  • a fizzy drink

We may have been a little hungry.

Kumara feels like the sort of place where chickens still have time to cross the road, and locals leave the car running while they duck into the shop.

Nice place.

Progress for the day was steady but not fast — the twisty nature of the trail keeps speeds down. Eventually the route opens out onto an old tramway line, then transitions back onto the road as you approach Greymouth.

Greymouth itself is a long, narrow town stretched along the coast. The beach is made up entirely of smooth stones rather than sand, which gives it a very different feel.

It also has:

  • a bike shop
  • cheap Australian beer

Result.

Just in case you can’t work out whether your glass is full or empty.

Day Summary

Route: Lake Kaniere → Greymouth
Distance: 77 km
Riding Time: 5 hr
Climbing: 475 m
Weather: Foggy start, clearing later
Best moment: Riding through the forest trails of the Wilderness Trail

Ride Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/22266784612

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